Pilgrimage to Ireland

Jackdaws were everywhere (as ravens had been for most of my trip) when I traveled to Knockainy and Lough Gur. This part of Ireland is not as dramatic as the other places I visited. It is softer, greener and, I expect, has many mist-filled mornings.

On my way, I happened to pass the Patrickwell at the foot of Knockdere. Wells dedicated to St. Patrick were ones that had been important in Pagan times. This particular well is an excellent example of how the Irish mingled the old and new religions. The site is very well taken care of with a nice path and tiny footbridge over the stream that flows from the well. At the far end is a small white shrine that houses a statue of Patrick, a candle and offerings. The older stone well has steps down to the water within the enclosure. I asked for blessings from Aine and tied a ribbon on the tree branch overhanging the well.

Knockainy

Knockainy (Cnoc Aine) is the hill of Aine, an ancient goddess and daughter of Eóghan, a king of the Tuatha De Danann. In some legends she is said to have been wife to Manannan, in others she is mentioned as the daughter of Manannan Mac Lir. In some sources she is referred to as the faery princess of Munster, or simply “a celebrated banshee”. Aine is also associated with Danu and the Morrigan.

Aine has been of particular personal importance to me and so I was compelled to make a special pilgrimage to her hill. Bordering a pasture was a nice rambling thicket next to which stood an old hawthorn tree with drapes of ivy – the perfect place for me to make offerings and honor her.

Even though in myth Aine was associated with the sun (her name Aine or Ane having been derived from “an” meaning brightness), she was locally revered as a moon goddess. Into the 18th century, on Midsummer’s night people would gather to view the moon and then proceed up Knockainy with torches. From there they would walk through the cultivated fields requesting blessings from Aine for a good harvest.

Lough Gur

The area around Lough Gur has been inhabited for thousands of years. The “Giants’ Grave” is a megalithic tomb (circa 4000 BCE) that is called a wedge-shaped gallery grave. It has a long passageway that is divided into two chambers. It is oriented to the northeast. Part of its double outer wall still stands.

I stretched out on the ground to have a look inside, and would have crawled in to see what it was like. It wasn’t so much the mud but a large spider that gave me second thoughts about entering.

Across the road and about 300 yards farther along is “New” Church, a lovely ruin with ivy taking over its walls. The church was a chapel for the Earls of Desmond. Thomas O’Connellan, a great minstrel bard who died circa 1700, is said to be buried there. The locals believed that it was Aine who was heard keening from atop Knockadoon beside Lough Gur when his funeral procession passed.

Grange Stone Circle (Rannach Croim Duibh) was constructed circa 2100 BCE and is the largest ring of stones in Ireland. The entrance is aligned with the rising sun on Midsummer’s Day. It is still in use by local Pagans.